Milady's Black CosmetologyTABLE OF CONTENTS |
Introduction 1
A History of Black Styling 1
Chapter I
Brushing and Combing 7
Learning Objectives 7
Introduction 7
Special Considerations in Brushing and combing 7
Brushing 7
When to Brush 7
When Not to Brush 8
Types of Brushes 8
Combing 9
Detangling 9
Sectioning 11
Questions for Review 11
Chapter 2
Shampooing 13
Learning Objectives 13
Introduction 13
Shampooing Considerations 13
Shampoo Selection 14
Physically Relaxed Hair 14
Soft Curled Hair 14
Natural Hair 14
The Shampoo Service 15
Questions for Review 16
Chapter 3
Conditioning 17
Learning Objectives 17
Introduction 17
Conditioners 17
Types of Conditioners 19
Moisturizers 20
Conditioning for a Service 21
Conditioning for Chemically Processed Hair 21
Conditioning Before and After a Cut and Style 21
Conditioning Hair for Blow-Drying or Thermal Styling 22
Conditioning for Maintenance 22
Scalp Manipulations 22
Retailing Products for Maintenance 26
Questions for Review 26
Chapter 4
Braiding 27
Learning Objectives 27
Introduction 27
Plait Braiding 27
French Braiding 29
Corn rowing 31
Forty-Strand Braid 32
Braiding Tips 36
Questions for Review 36
Chapter 5
Hair Shaping 37
Learning Objectives 37
Introduction 37
Shaping Considerations 37
Sectioning 38
Four-Section Parting 38
Five-Section Parting 38
Implements in Black Hair Shaping 38
Haircutting Techniques 41
Cuffing Chemically or Physically Relaxed Hair 41
Cutting Virgin (or Natural) Hair 43
Layered Looks for Black Hair 44
Relaxed and Layered 44
Natural and Layered 46
Questions for Review 48
Chapter 6
Hairstyling 49
Learning Objectives 49
Introduction 49
Roller Sets 49
Upsweep 49
Pageboy 51
Long and Curly Look 52
Short and Layered 53
Comb-Out 54
Hair Extensions 54
Styling and After-Care of Extensions 58
Questions for Review 58
Chapter 7
Chemical Hair Relaxing 59
Learning Objectives 59
Introduction 59
Chemical Hair Relaxing Products 59
Basic Relaxing Steps 60
Hair Analysis 61
Porosity 61
Texture 62
Elasticity 62
Hair Density 63
Scalp Examination 63
Relaxer Test 63
Relaxing Process with Sodium Hydroxide 64
Rinsing Out Relaxer 67
Shampooing/Neutralizing and Conditioning 67
Shampooing/Neutralizing 67
Conditioners and Conditioner Fillers 68
Sodium Hydroxide Retouch 69
Relaxing Process with Ammonium Thioglycolate 70
Thio Retouch 70
Other Relaxers 71
Safety Precautions 71
Questions for Review 72
Chapter 8
Soft Curl Permanent Waving 73
Learning Objectives 73
Introduction 73
Safety Tips 73
Client Record Cards 74
Soft Curl Permanent Wave Application 74
Aftercare of Soft Curl Permanent Waved Hair 81
Questions for Review 81
Chapter 9
Thermal Styling 83
Learning Objectives 83
Introduction 83
Blow-Dry Styling 83
Straightening and Curling with the Slow-Dryer 84
Other Effects Achieved with Blow-Dry Styling 87
Safety Precautions for Blow-Drying 87
Styling Chemically Relaxed Hair with a Curling Iron 87
Using the Curling Iron 88
Using the Curling Iron on Short and Medium-Length Hair 91
Curl Types 91
Volume-Base Curls 91
Full-Base Curls 91
Half-Base Curls 92
Off-Base Curls 92
Thermal Flat Curls 92
Reminders and Hints for Thermal Waving and Curling 93
Hair Pressing 93
Pressing Combs 93
Heating the Pressing Comb 94
Pressing Oil or Cream 94
Pressing Safety Precautions 96
Questions for Review 96
Chapter 10
Black Skin and its Care 97
Learning Objectives 97
Introduction 97
The Skin 97
Histology of the Skin 97
Structures in the Skin 98
The lntegumentary System 99
Special Properties of Black Skin 100
Color 100
Elasticity and Sebaceous Glands 100
Other Special Differences 101
Skin Types 101
Caring for Black Skin 102
Facials 102
Skin Conditions Affecting
Black Skin 105
Melasma 105
Vitiligo 105
Pseudofolliculitis 106
Ashiness 106
Keloids
Questions for Review 106
Chapter 11
Hair Structure 107
Learning Objectives 107
Introduction 107
Hair Structure 107
Cuticle 108
Cuticle Characteristics 108
Cortex 109
Cortex Structure 110
Color Pigment 111
Natural Curl Formation 112
Shape of the Hair 112
Shape of the Follicle 114
Cyclical Theory 114
Medulla 115
Chemical Services 115
Permanent Waves 115
Wrapping with Control 115
Processing Factors 116
Special Considerations 117
Hair Coloring 118
Temporary Color 118
Semi-Permanent Colors 118
Permanent Tints 119
Special Considerations 121
Aftercare 121
Relaxers 121
Thio Relaxers 121
Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers 122
Action of Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers 122
Chemical Hair Straightening-Sodium Hydroxide 123
Special Considerations 124
Protective Bases 124
Aftercare 125
Questions for Review 126
Chapter 12
Hair Coloring 127
Learning Objectives 127
Introduction 127
The Coloring Service 127
Classifications of Hair Coloring 128
Temporary Hair Coloring 128
Semi-Permanent Hair Coloring 129
Permanent Hair Coloring 130
Test for Metallic Salts and Coating Dyes 131
Special Considerations for Coloring Black Hair 131
The Cuticle 131
The Cortex 132
Aniline Derivative Tints 132
Allergy to Aniline Derivative 132
Patch Test 132
Examining Scalp and Hair 133
Consultation 134
Basic Rules of Color Selection 135
Strand Test to Confirm Color Selection 135
Following a Working Plan in Tinting 136
Special Techniques for Coloring Black Hair 137
Alternative Techniques 137
Lightening Techniques for Black Hair 137
Finishing Touches in the Coloring Procedure for Black 137
Temporary Colors 137
Methods of Application 138
Alternate Methods 139
Semi-Permanent Color 139
Advantages of Semi-Permanent Color 139
Types of Semi-Permanent Tints 139
Preliminary Steps 140
Permanent Hair Color 141
Single-Process Tints 142
Single-Process Tint Lightening Procedure for Virgin Hair 142
Preliminary Steps 143
Tinting to a Darker Shade 145
Single-Process Tint Retouch 145
Preliminary Steps 145
Highlighting Shampoo Colors 146
Pre-Lightening or Pre-Softening 146
Tips and Safety Precautions for Coloring Black Hair 147
General Safety Precautions for Coloring and Lightening 147
Questions for Review 148
Chapter 13
Hair Lightening and Other Color Techniques 149
Learning Objectives 149
Action of Lighteners 149
Introduction 150
Effects of Lighteners 150
Problems in Hair Lightening 151
Types of Lighteners 151
Hydrogen Peroxide 152
Lightening Virgin Hair 153
Lightener Retouch 154
Retouch Procedure 154
Lightening Safety Precautions 155
Spot Lightening 156
Special Problems in Hair Coloring 156
Damaged Hair 157
Fillers 158
Tint Removal 158
Removing Coating Dyes 160
Tint Back to Natural Color 160
Definition Pertaining to Hair Coloring 161
Questions for Review 162
Chapter 14
Makeup 163
Learning Objectives 163
Introduction 163
Color Theory 164
Color Vocabulary 165
Achromatic 165
Colors of Black Skin 165
Basic Shades 166
Makeup for Black Skin 166
Foundation 167
Blush or Rouge 169
Eye shadow 169
Mascara 171
Eyeliner 171
Eyebrow Color 172
Lip Color 174
Questions for Review 176
Index 178
|