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Hair Matters: African Ancestry

TABLE OF CONTENTS

  Dedication                                  vi
  Foreword                                   vii
  Preface                                   viii
  Acknowledgements                            ix
  Introduction of the Book                     x
  
  Chapter 1                                    1
  Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing)   1
  Learning Objectives                          2
  Introduction of Thermal Hair Straightening   3
       History of Thermal Hair Straightening   3
       Misconceptions of Good and Bad hair     4
  Thermal Hair Straightening                   5
       What is Thermal Hair Straightening      
        (Hair Pressing?)                       5
  Factors to be Considered Before the Hair   
       Pressing Treatment                      8
       Hair Texture                            8
       Hair Porosity                           9
       Condition of Hair                       9
       Condition of Scalp                      9
             Normal Scalp                      9
           Flexible Scalp                      9
              Tight Scalp                     10
  Types of Hair Presses                       10
               Hard Press                     10
             Medium Press                     11
               Soft Press                     12
  Modern Pressing Comb                        13
  Tempering The Pressing Comb                 13
  Testing for Heat of pressing Comb           14
  Hair Pressing Procedure                     14
  Safety Rules For Hair Pressing              18
  Notes about Hair Pressing                   19
  Summary                                     21
  Review Quiz                                 22
  

  Chapter 2                                   23
  Thermal Curling                             24  
  Learning Objectives                         24
  Introduction                                25
  History of The Marcel Curling Iron          25
  Construction of the Marcel Iron             27
  Holding And Manipulating the Curling Iron   27
  Testing for Temperature of Curling Iron     28
  Types of Thermal Curls                      29
           Croquignole or Figure Eight Curl   29
           Figure Six Curl                    33
           Barrel curl                        35
           Spiral Curl                        36
  Safety For Thermal Curls                    43           
  Summary                                     44
  Review Quiz                                 44
               
                    Chapter 3                                 

  Sodium Hydroxide                            45
  Chemical Hair Relaxing 
     (Chemical Hair Straightening)            46
  Learning Objectives                         46
  Introduction                                47
  Reaction Of Sodium Hydroxide 
     on the Hair Shaft                        47
  pH Scale                                    48
  Sodium Hydroxide Content                    49
  Factors To Be Considered Before 
     relaxing Hair                            50
  Analyzing The Hair                          50
  Hair Structure   :                          50
  Condition Of The Hair And    Scalp          51
  Elasticity Of Hair                          52
  Artificially Treated   or Virgin   Hair     52
  Client's Health                             52
  Hair Conditioners                           52
  Age of The Client                           53
  Client's Life Style                         53
  Types Of Sodium Hydroxide     Relaxers      54
  Base Relaxer (Straightener)                 54
  No-Base Relaxer                             55                  
  Strengths of Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers      55
  Regular Strength                            55
  Super Strength                              55
  Strengths Of No-Base 
     Sodium Hydroxide relaxers                55
  Mild Strength                               55
  Regular Strength                            55
  Super Strength                              55
  Application Of 
     Sodium Hydroxide relaxers                56
  Virgin Application                          56
  Virgin Procedure                            57
  Pre-Strand Testing Procedure                65
  Sodium Hydroxide relaxer 
     Retouch Application                      66
  Sodium Hydroxide Texturizing Process        68
  Sodium Hydroxide 
     chemical Texturizer Procedure            68
  Spot Relaxing :                             70
  Safety Precautions for 
     sodium Hydroxide relaxers                70
  Summary                                     71
  Review Quiz                                 72

                    Chapter 4                                 

  Ammonium Thiogycolate Relaxers And Soft     73
  Permanent Waving For Overly-Curly Hair      74
  Learning Objectives                         74
  Introduction                                75
  Ammonium Thiogycolate Relaxers              75
  Strengths Of Thiogycolate Relaxers          76
  Mild                                        76
  Regular                                     76
  Super                                       76
  Maximum Strength                            76

  Factors to be considered 
     before the Thiogycolate
  Relaxer Is Given                            76
  Analyzing The Hair                          76
  Structure Of The Hair                       76
  Condition Of The Hair                       77
  Elasticity Of The Hair                      77
  Virgin Hair Or Artificially Treated Hair    77
  Client's Health                             77
  Hair Conditioners                           77
  Age Of Client                               77
  Procedure for a Virgin Thiogycolate relaxer 78
  Procedure For Thiogycolate Relaxer Retouch  82
  Soft Permanent Wave For Overly-Curly Hair   82
  Virgin Soft Permanent Wave Procedure        82
  Soft Permanent Wave Retouch                 88
  Safety Rules For Thiogycolate 
     Relaxers And Soft permanent Waves        88
  Summary                                     89
  Review Quiz                                 90
                    Chapter 5                 
  Answers To Quiz                             92
  Thermal Hair Straightening                  92
  Thermal Curling                             92
  Sodium Hydroxide Chemical Hair Relaxing     93
  Ammonium Thiogycolate Hair Relaxing     
     and Soft Permanent Waving                94
  Glossary                                    95
  Index                                      107
  Bibliography                               110

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